Friday, November 25, 2011

Dodecanese Islands

In brief 
The letter ‘K’ brings the Dodecanese Islands to you. Karpathos, Kassos, Kastelorizo, Kos and Kalymnos seriously outrank the other dozen or so islands in the group when it comes to alphabetic supremacy.
Of course, there is more to these sun-drenched islands than their Sesame St synchronicity. Whitewashed walls, deep blue sky, olive groves, fig trees, azure Aegean waters...the Dodecanese Islands have all this and more.

General Information
Dodecanese is a group of islands in southeastern Greece in the Aegean Sea, It is located between the southwester coast of Asia Minor and the island of Crete, south of Samos, and Fourni, and east of the Cyclades. Although its name means ''12 (dodeca) islands'', the group consists of about 50 islands and islets. Only 18 of these islands are permanently inhabited.
Of these the most important are Rhodes, Kos , and Karpathos. Rhodes, on which Rhodes, or Rodos, capital of the group is located, has the largest area and population of all the islands. The other inhabited islands are Kalymnos, Leros, Nisyros, Patmos, Kastelorizo (Megisti), Astypalea, Kassos, Halki, Tilos, Pserimos and Lipsi. The total population of all the islands is about146,000 inhabitants .
 
Agriculture is the chief occupation of the Dodecanese, the leading crops being olives, grapes, oranges, and other fruits and vegetables. Sponge fishing is locally important (especially in Kalymnos), but of major economic significance to the island is tourism, which flourishes during the summer months.
Several islands of the Dodecanese, especially Rhodes, were settled by the ancient Greeks and figured prominently in Hellenic civilization for many centuries. The islands subsequently became Roman dominions. Following the division of the Roman Empire, it then belonged to the Byzantine Empire. In 1522 the Ottoman Turks, who retained control until the successful invasion of Rhodes in 1912 by Italian armed forces, seized the Dodecanese. During World War II, in 1943, German troops occupied the Dodecanese, and in May of 1945, the island were relinquished to British forces. The Dodecanese was formally ceded to Greece in 1948.
 
Nowadays, Rhodes and Kos are among the most popular and cosmopolitan islands in the Mediterranean. Kalymnos is the island of the sponge divers, while Halki, Nisyros, Kassos, Tilos and Pserimos are still kept away from the massive tourism , retaining their traditional character. Symi is a picturesque small island, which becomes popular, wild and mountainous Karpathos is dramatically beautiful, Agathonisi and Kassos are hilly and difficult to reach. Patmos is the island where Saint John the Divine wrote the prophetic Revelations, while the visitor has to make an excursion to the nearby islets of Fourni, Lipsi, and Agathonisi where one will find his or her own totally private beach. Leros is relatively quite, while Astypalea has a magnificent geographical location and the architecture matches Cyclades. Last but not least Kastellorizo or Megisti is the destination at the ''edge'' of Greece.  You cannot get any further.

Sightseeing & Main Attractions
Rhodes (Rodos)
The beautiful historic island of Rhodes is an absolute must on any Greek island odyssey. In addition to its many gorgeous beaches, there are unspoilt villages to explore and the largest inhabited medieval town in Europe, Rhodes City's World Heritage-listed old town, to savour.
Kos
Kos, home to father of medicine Hippocrates, is second only to Rhodes in its wealth of archeological remains. It's also very touristy - most of its beaches are wall-to-wall with sun beds and parasols. Instead of fighting for a place in the sun, take in some history in the capital, Kos Town, enjoy the bar life and leave your sun baking for quieter islands.
Nisyros (Nissiros) 

Volcanic Nisyros is one of the strangest and most beautiful of all Greek islands - an unusual mixture of lush vegetation and dramatic, barren volcanic moonscapes.
Patmos
For a truly sacred travel experience, make your way to Patmos. It was on this island that St John wrote his divinely inspired Revelation (the Apocalypse), the last book of the New Testament. Today it is a place of pilgrimage for both Orthodox and western Christians, as well as the more profane sun and sand worshippers. Instantly palatable, Patmos entices visitors to linger and to almost certainly return.
Lipsi
Get away from the crowds by heading to Lipsi, an idyllic island with good beaches and relatively few tourists. Easy to get to, the place to lay your hat, and with few cultural or historical monuments on offer, day trips to the various beaches are the order of the day. You can catch a bus to most of the beaches, but walking through countryside dotted with olive groves and cypresses and small farm holdings is by far the more pleasant option.
Kastelorizo
If you really want to play Robinson Crusoe and escape the tourist hordes, hightail it to Kastelorizo. Its remoteness has ensured it has a character all its own and that tourism is low-key. It doesn't have any beaches, but there are rocky inlets from where you can swim and snorkel in crystal-clear sea. If you remember the 1991 film Mediterraneo you'll have some idea of what to expect.
Tilos
Go for its uncrowned beaches, evocative abandoned villages and picture-postcard Greek island feel. If you're the poetic type you might like to see the place where Irini, one of the greatest of ancient Greece's female poets, lived in the 4th century BC. Tilos is a walker's paradise, with vistas of high cliffs, rocky inlets, the sea, valleys of cypress, walnut and almond trees, and bucolic meadows with well-fed cattle.
Karpathos
Rugged mountains, some of the greatest beaches in the Aegean and unspoilt villages characterise the slender island, which has not yet succumbed to the worst excesses of mass tourism. For hundreds of years the north and south parts of Karpathos were isolated from each other and developed independently, with the result that each has quite a different feel.


Activities
Windsurfing, water-skiing, snorkelling, diving and swimming are the activities de jour in the Dodecanese - what else would you do when you've got the warm azure waters of the Aegean rippling in front of you? Windsurfing is the most popular watersport in the whole of Greece. You'll find sailboards for hire all over the place, and if you're a novice, most outfits that rent gear also give lessons. Rhodes, Karpathos and Kos are the best places. Water-skiing nuts will need to head to Rhodes or Kos to get their fix. Make sure your insurance is up to date!
 
Snorkelling, on the other hand, is enjoyable almost anywhere, and the Dodecanese offer some of the best spots in the Greek islands. Strap on your mask and fins at Ammoopi on Karpathos, Telendos Islet near Kalymnos, Lipsi and anywhere off the coast of Kastelorizo. Diving is a slightly different matter. To protect the many underwater antiquities throughout the Aegean, you can only explore the depths with a diving school. Luckily, Rhodes has one. If you can drag yourself away from the beach, trekking, or simply wandering the pathways around islands, is another option - in the right season. July and August are a recipe for heatstroke, but April and May are just perfect. Yachting is incredibly popular - the Aegean rivals the Caribbean for its perfect sailing conditions. Oh, and did we mention sunbathing, napping and generally lazing around on the beach?

Culture
Mention almost any field of endeavour and you'll find the ancient Greeks were the first to do it: philosophy (Socrates, Plato, Aristotle), medicine (Hippocrates), architecture (think Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns), pottery (the ubiquitous painted terracotta pot), painting (frescoes), sculpture (draped nudes), literature (the Iliad and the Odyssey to name but a few) and drama (Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes). The Dodecanese Islands have much of this ancient cultural legacy in spades. You can see frescoes throughout the island group, some in better condition than others. Kos is the birthplace of Hippocrates, and there are plenty monuments to see. Rhodes and Kos, and other islands to a lesser extent, are more or less open-air museums, offering up a grand suite of antiquities, in differing degrees of decay. Other islands, such as Karpathos, are known for their folk - music and dance - traditions. Modern-day arts are very much wedded to the past, and festivals celebrating ancient drama, for example, are just one way to get in touch with the cultural riches on offer.
 
The Dodecanese, like the rest of the Greek population, are a mixture of all the invaders who have occupied the country since ancient times. Kos and Rhodes have a small number of Turks, while the Jewish communities on the island of Rhodes date back to the Roman era. Along with other parts of Greece, the Dodecanese Islands are rich in traditional customs. Name days, weddings and funerals all have great significance. Superstitions are part of the equation, with a range of strategies brought to bear to avoid the 'evil eye'. Religion, too, is still integral to life in Greece - nearly everyone belongs to the Greek Orthodox Church and the Greek year is centred on the festivals of the church calendar.
 
Eating and drinking with friends is at the heart of Greek culture, and there is ample opportunity to share in this tradition while visiting the Dodecanese Islands. The usual Greek menu can be found almost everywhere. The further you go from the larger, more tourist towns though, the more likely you will be to discover local delicacies and regional variations on traditional fare. On Kassos, for example, you can buy mezedes of kritamos, a plant that grows along the island's rocky shore line. Similarly, Nisyros has its own non-alcoholic beverage called soumada, made from almond extract. Seafood, of course, is plentiful and fresh on the islands. Many of the larger beaches in the Dodecanese have a taverna to keep hungry tourists happy and most towns generally have a selection of restaurants and kafeneia (traditional cafes). In smaller villages eating places are often connected to the accommodation.
 
Local Events
The Greeks have kefi in abundance - Zorba was the king of kefi - and you too can share in this lust for life by throwing yourself into the mix of religious, cultural and just plain celebratory events that make up the Greek calendar. One of your key opportunities for fun is the Greek carnival season, which takes place three weeks before the Lenten fasting period starts. Don a mask, and feast and dance with the locals. The Feast of Agios Konstantinos (20-21 May) honours the protector of Kastelorizo.
In June, fishing villages and ports, particularly Rhodes' harbour Mandraki, celebrate the long relationship between the Greek people and the sea in Navy Week. On 17 July the Feast of Agia Marina (St Marina) is celebrated with particular fervour on Kassos. The Feast of Panagia tou Harou on 22 August is the Lipsi island busiest time. August is also the month of Kos' Hippocratia Festival, so be prepared to drink to the health of the great medical man. Like Athens, Rhodes also boasts a nightly son et lumiere from mid-May to September and Greek folk dances from May to October.

How to get there
Flying to the Dodecanese Islands from the Greek mainland is fairly straightforward. Astypalea, Karpathos, Kassos, Kos, Leros and Rhodes all have flights to Athens, while
inter-island flight service operate between Karpathos and Crete, Kos and Leros, Rhodes, Karpathos, Kastellorizo, Crete, Santorini and Mykonos. Ferry schedules to the Dodecanese, on the other hand, are incredibly complicated - mainly because the islands are so far from the mainland.

Direct charter flights are available from European cities to Rhodes, Kos and Karpathos.

What you can bank on is that the shortest trip from the mainland ferry hub of Piraeus to the main port Rhodes takes about 28 hours. Departure times in both directions tend to be geared to an early-morning arrival, meaning onward island-hops can involve some antisocial hours. While there are some daily ferries between the mainland and the island group, boats to some islands only depart weekly or even every two or three weeks. From Turkey you can catch Marmaris-Rhodes and Bodrum-Kos ferries. If you're stuck for options you can always catch a lift on a long-haul boat - boats en route from Piraeus to Cyprus and Israel call at Rhodes. Lastly, you can make your way from the north-east Aegean island of Samos (and occasionally Ikaria) to the northern Dodecanese via hydrofoil. In general though, the Dodecanese are poorly linked to other Aegean island groups.

Getting around the Dodecanese
If time is of the essence you can fly between Rhodes and Kastelorizo, Karpathos and Kassos. Otherwise, get into the spirit of things and island-hop by boat. The principal islands have daily connections by ferry or excursion boat. Some of the more remote islands only have a twice-weekly ferry service. You can also catch hydrofoils from Rhodes to most islands in the group. Yachting is another excellent way to get around. Once you're on an island, you can get around by car (driving is on the right-hand side). Most towns - and some islands - are small enough to get around on foot or bike, although cycling hasn't really caught on yet because of the hills. Most islands have a taxi boat service and prices are usually reasonable.

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